Sunday, July 13, 2014

They're here!

Good morning!  It's early, gauged by the stillness outside. Actually, I now hear the birds. They have this deep vibrating caw, some of them, almost like a frog. They rise from their slumber around 5am. 

Are those hyenas that I'm hearing? My dad asked the waitress last night, as for the first moment all evening the animal underworld fell completely silent, well now of course they stopped. 

You know that face a collective makes when they're all straining to hear a sound? Chins pointed slightly upward, eyebrows bluntly raises. 

I do not think so, the waitress replied. 

My parents arrived in Lilongwe! If I knew how fun it was I would've gone to sleep away camp all those years just for the fun of having family arrive on your turf after being away for so long. I was filled with such giddiness when I got to the hotel that I kept on thinking I heard them; when they finally did arrive the front desk staff peered around with smiling faces to where I was sitting, beckoning me over: they're here!

All the hotels in Malawi (and hostels and lodges and guest houses for that matter) are small and intimate. The one we're staying in right now has nine rooms. It's located in an area of the capital that frankly prior to yesterday I barely knew existed. It's where all the government officials and consulate appointments reside, a gated community. I'm pretty sure the actual hotel used to be a home as well, it has that look. 

It's very modern and boutique-y feeling, the whole setting. The color theme is stone grey and white, even the mosquito nets. They're of the walk-in variety, more like one of those princess canopies I always wanted when I was a little kid. For my solo lunch and reunion dinner last night I still stuck to chicken, but elegantly prepared 3 different ways. There's a TV here. I was provided welcome juice.  

A handful of hours in Africa and my mother already was reflecting on how strange it was that this was the Malawi she was going to see, in contrast to the Malawi I've been experiencing; in contrast to the Malawi the majority of Malawians know. Obviously, my experience in the rural North has barely scraped the surface of the reality and poverty of the developing world, of Malawi. We did visit the city center though yesterday, and saw some of the outdoor markets, the garbage, the bare feet, the children, the colors of a teetering nation. And I will show them more as we go. They'll see it, you can't miss it. 

Have I mentioned the kwacha depreciated by 4 over the last decade? I don't know Econ: what I mean is that in the early 2000s 1 USD was 100 kwacha and now it's worth 400. 

So yes: my parents arrived and I'm thrilled. I miss Emily and Ekwendeni (and you and the USA) but am so excited for what this week has in store. It's going to be fun to come along as my parents observe with fresh eyes all the things I've come to know relatively well. It'll be fun to see new things together as well. 

Will write again later! Today we leave for safari. 

Love,

Rebecca




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